Dog Reactivity on Leash: Why It Happens and How to Retrain It
Quick Answers
Direct answer: Leash reactivity toward other dogs is retrained by first identifying your dog's exact threshold distance -- the closest another dog can be while yours stays calm -- and doing all early training outside that distance, gradually closing the gap over many sessions rather than forcing exposure.
Two different reactivity profiles
A dog with tail up, a hard stare, and forward lunging that seems excited rather than scared is usually showing frustration -- often a dog that's fine off-leash but restrained on-leash. A dog with ears back, tail tucked, barking while backing away is showing fear. These need different emphasis, though the training method is similar.
The engage-disengage method
At your dog's threshold distance, mark and reward every voluntary glance at the other dog followed by a look back at you. This teaches your dog that noticing a trigger predicts good things and a check-in with you, rather than escalation.
Progressing safely
Slowly and unpredictably decrease distance across many short sessions. Never push closer on a day your dog is already stressed from something unrelated -- stress compounds across a day, not just within a single session.
What to avoid
Leash corrections at the moment of reacting pair discomfort with the sight of other dogs, which typically worsens reactivity. Forced greetings "to get it over with" almost always backfire the same way.
Get a plan matched to your dog's exact reactivity profile with the Natural Behavior Decoder, and see how reactivity differs from aggression.